Each year, a blessed cheesemaker is rewarded at the prestigious World Cheese Awards. Two years ago, it was an alpine-style Cornish Kern; last year, the supreme champion was a Norwegian Gouda-style cheese, produced on a tiny scale, from a herd of just 12 cows.
This year, for the first time in the awards’ 32-year history, the top prize landed in the United States. American cheese has a bad reputation…