The basic ratios of my cheesecake are in line with a recipe published in New York City over one hundred years ago, but with a portion of the cream cheese replaced by goat cheese. That combination mimics the texture of old fashioned cream cheese—tangy, fresh, and a little crumbly too. It makes for a cheesecake that tastes perfectly authentic, not goaty, and free from the gumminess that can plague some recipes. Thanks to an initial burst of high heat, it puffs gently in the oven, creating a uniquely light but creamy consistency.