Not milking it: how vegan cheese finally caught up with modern appetites

At first glance, Riverdel is more or less indistinguishable from any other gourmet food shop in Brooklyn. Shelves along one side of the narrow space are lined by boxes of gluten-free pasta, artisanal chocolate bars, no-added-sugar ketchup, shakers of nutritional yeast and jars of small-batch vodka sauce. On the other side is a refrigerated display case containing what appears to be a motherlode of dairy products – jalapeño cream cheese, blocks of feta and bloomy-rinded wheels of camembert – that spill from its cool confines.