I love giving parties over the festive season. There’s time to cook, people are feeling happy and relaxed, and sensible eating won’t start for at least a few more days (longer, if you hate January diets). These delectable little gougères are based on a Simon Hopkinson classic. Mine use up some of the leftover Christmas blue cheese, combining it with creme fraiche for a silky filling – rather like a savoury profiterole. The perfect nibble for New Year’s Eve …